Water Works Wonders

Listed below are a number of important factors that could lead to failure with your salt-water aquarium. Check over the list carefully and if one applies to you, you will know what went wrong.

1. Hands were placed in aquarium without rinsing. This could have introduced soap or hand oils to tank, with harmful results.
2. Fish were not introduced to the aquarium properly. If fish were not floated in a jar or plastic bag and introduced to the tank slowly they could have developed “Ick” or they could suffer from shock, especially if changed from natural to artificial water.
3. Coral was not well cured.
4. Insufficient aeration. If not enough air, fish will die, sometimes slowly. Always have strong aeration so the water circulates all over the aquarium.
5. Fish were in poor condition when purchased. This is sometimes a leading factor and if the fish are in very bad condition it may well be impossible to save them. Before you purchase a fish examine it closely and observe whether or not it is swimming contentedly about the aquarium. Also be certain it is eating. If the fish will not eat and if it stays at the bottom or top of the aquarium without swimming around, it most likely is in poor health. Also check the fine, transparent portions of the fins for signs of “Ick” or fin rot and fungus. Never buy fish if they are dashing about the aquarium erratically or are continuously rubbing themselves against the coral as they are diseased and will infect your fish, and soon die unless quickly cured. It is especially important that you observe the fish for ten or fifteen minutes at least, before you buy. Many marine fish are being treated with copper sulfate before shipment and often the solution is too strong. The fish becomes poisoned and although he may not die right away, he will usually refuse food and gradually waste away. That’s why it’s important to see him eat before you buy. Healthy fish have healthy appetites.
6. If you had your fish flown in from an out-of-town dealer there can be complications that could lead to failure, At the present time, many dealers are using artificial sea water to ship their fish, and this could be a source of trouble. The fish first are caught by the collector, who brings them in to his main base, where they are then shipped to jobbers or dealers. Quite often the jobbers are not near the ocean, so they must use artificial sea water. The fish in this case are taken from natural sea water and transferred to artificial water before they are shipped. This is all right if the fish have been gradually acclimated to the artificial water, but sometimes that is not the case. The fish are simply dumped into the man-made water and shipped on to the dealers. Then the dealers, who may have an entirely different brand of artificial water, will put the fish into their mixture. When the customer purchases the fish he may transfer them into still another brand of artificial water. The constant change from one type of water to another, each having a different pH and mineral structure can easily result in the death of the fish. Not only are synthetic sea water mixtures quite different in structure, but the fresh water this salt is mixed with to make sea water can vary tremendously from one state to another. Therefore, if it is possible, hobbyists or dealers should request that their fish be shipped in pure sea water so that they won’t have to go through so many changes of salt solution. This one factor alone results in heavy losses of salt-water fish, both to dealer and hobbyist. If a fish is caught fresh from the sea and then shipped directly to the customer in pure sea water, the customer can float the fish in this same water and add the water to his aquarium. This will lessen the shock to the fish in the transition from natural water to man-made water and also add trace elements to the aquarium water.

If you are going to use live coral in your aquarium instead of the white, bleached coral, it should not be treated, bleached, or cured in any way, which of course would kill it. It should be handled just like a live fish, and may be taken directly from the ocean and placed in the aquarium.

While en route from the ocean to your home the coral should be kept shaded and in clean sea water, with aeration if needed. When it is placed in the tank, sufficient fresh sea water should be added to insure the health and proper chemical balance of the water. Sea water varies greatly with each location; so when gathering live coral for your aquarium it is best also to bring back enough fresh sea water to fill the tank, if possible. Remove any slime from the aquarium, if any is present, after you place the corals in your tank.

The slime can easily be taken out with a fine mesh net or siphoned out with a plastic hose. Live coral should be watched closely the first few days, and if it appears to be dead and is turning white it should be promptly removed. If you are not certain that it is dead, place it in a fish bowl or other container of sea water and observe it for a few days.

Although the distribution of live coral to aquarists away from the ocean is limited, it is can shipped by air and small heads up to six inches across, complete with live tube worms, may be ordered from collectors.

A few choice pieces of coral and a shell or two, if properly selected, will give the aquarium its basic beauty. Avoid loading your aquarium with excessive coral as this may cause much trouble. Chosen wisely, it will enhance your aquarium and even without fish, the salt-water aquarium artistically decorated with beautiful coral is a magnificent thing. When properly lighted it will handsomely decorate the finest of homes. The coral should be arranged so that it will provide hiding places for the fish so that they will feel secure. Rather than crowd the tank too much with coral, a few well chosen shells will furnish a snug, safe home for your fish. One or two choice pieces of coral, with a shell or two, should be sufficient for most aquariums, depending on the size of the tank. Then it will be a simple matter to siphon out uneaten foods without disturbing the fish.

All coral, shells, etc. must be absolutely clean and sterile before placing in the aquarium. Just because an object is snow white does not mean that it is clean. Coral should be soaked in fresh water at least two or three weeks before use. Then it should be rinsed thoroughly and if completely free of decaying odor, it may be dried, preferably in the sun. Then it may be used but with discretion. If your first aquarium was a failure it was probably due to improperly cleaned coral. Coral taken directly from the sea must be cured much longer. A minimum safety time would be from one to three months or longer depending on the size and type of coral being cleaned.

The only type of shells which should be used are shallow clam shells. These are quickly cleaned and seldom cause harm. The baby giant-clam shells of the Tridacna family are ideal as they make perfect homes for the marine fish. Pushed part way into the sand, they will leave several openings for the fish to enter or escape and it will furnish them with a dark, snug home. These shells may be obtained in any size, from an inch and a half to several feet long so they will fill the needs of any type specimen.

The best coral to use is the Staghorn, Elkhorn, Lace, or Cluster coral as these types are usually available and they are easily cleaned. They come in a wide variety of sizes and shapes and will fill nearly every aquarium need. The cluster coral is white with a beautiful brown base and it makes an attractive combination. Most of the corals will be snow white, when cleaned, with the exception of the Organ Pipe coral which is brick red. This type of coral is much in demand for it gives the desired color to an otherwise all white display. It is constructed of tiny hollow “pipes” which gives it an interesting appearance . However, because of its construction, it should be used with caution. Not more than one or two pieces should be used in the aquarium and these must be soaked and washed for at least a month to be certain that ail decayed matter is removed from their interior. This type of coral is relatively soft so that it can be easily hollowed out with an ordinary table knife, to make superb homes for your salt water pets.

Lettuce coral, Brain coral, Rose coral, etc. also may be used and they are extremely beautiful and interesting. However, because of their dense structure, they are quite difficult to cure and to be safe, they should be soaked in fresh water for at least six months before use. Then they must be inspected closely for decay and if there is still a foul odor present, they must be soaked even longer. The author has cured some exquisite specimens of Brain coral for as long as two years before finally considering them safe for the aquarium. Don’t let this discourage you however. If you have a favorite piece of Lettuce or Brain coral and would like it for your aquarium, by all means cure it! You can always set up your aquarium with one or two smaller pieces while waiting for it to cure. But don’t take a chance on it and put it in your marine aquarium until it is absolutely spotless and free from odor. You may lose your entire display.

In fish as in humans it is often far easier to prevent a disease from developing than to treat an advanced illness. The most important factors contributing to disease are:

Crowding

This is not an actual cause of disease but contributes to the rapid spread of any infection. This occurs because of a number of effects, including a shortage of oxygen dissolved in the water, excess waste products, generally weakened fish, and the obvious fact that the fish are closer together in a compact area and infectious organisms have a short and easy path from one fish to the other. The hobbyist should realize how abnormal an aquarium environment is to a fish whose natural surroundings are a lake, river or stream.

Overfeeding

This contributes to disease not so much from having the fish actually gorge themselves, but because uneaten food on the bottom of the tank will rot and pollute the water. In a tank with coarse gravel the fine food particles gradually drift into the deeper layers of gravel and may also contribute to rotting the plant roots. Occasionally fish will actually overeat and may show obvious distress. This is most likely to happen if very coarse particles of dried food are fed which may swell after they are eaten and actually obstruct the fish.

Inadequate Diet

Fishes maintained only on poor quality dried foods such as wafer foods will be stunted, weakened and subject to a variety of infections.

Water Changes

Approximately ten to twenty percent of the water in a tank should be changed weekly under ideal conditions. This prevents the build-up of excess nitrogenous wastes and will help keep the entire tank in good condition. In hard water areas this routine will also prevent the build-up of excessive hardness. Rapid changes in temperature, pH, or hardness will have a weakening effect on fish. Most fish will do well at a pH of about 7 and can survive in a range from 6 to 8. A rapid change from 6 to 8, however, will bring on immediate signs of distress. Tropical aquarium fishes do well at a temperature of about 75°F. and can tolerate temperatures from 65 to 90°F. or higher if the changes are made gradually. Fishes in a large body of water can tolerate a surprisingly low temperature, probably because of the longer period of time the water takes to cool.

Small quantities of water can be added to any tank directly from the tap if the temperature is approximately that of the aquarium, without any dechlorination or aging necessary. If all of the water is to be changed or if a new aquarium is to be set up the water should be aged overnight before the fish are added. This allows the chlorine in the tap water to dissipate of its own accord and also allows excess air dissolved in the water to decrease. This process can be speeded up by using commercial anti chlorine compounds available in aquarium shops, using recommended amounts. In some parts of the country tap water may be used without aging but the hobbyist should experiment with his local water before trying this with valuable fish.

New Additions

Most hobbyists have had the unfortunate experience of introducing new fish, plants, snails, or accessories into an established tank and noticing the sudden onslaught of diseases. Ideally, new fish should be quarantined for a week or two in a separate tank while waiting for the possible development of signs of any infection the fish may be carrying. One precaution is to treat the fish for parasites even though none are apparent. This may be done by using a formalin dip (see Table of Drugs). Some hobbyists also routinely treat their quarantine tank with acriflavine or malachite green. The new plants may be decontaminated using commercial products available from aquarium supply stores. The question of snails, clams, and mussels is an open one. These animals can serve as hosts for a variety of parasites, some of which may affect aquarium fish.

Great care should be taken with materials which were not specifically intended for aquarium use such as home-made spawning mops, old porcelain ornaments, or rocks of unknown condition picked up in the field. If such items are to be used, it is safest to test them in a separate tank with inexpensive fish.

Contamination

The careful hobbyist will reserve a special net for any tank containing diseased fish, and will either sterilize it before using it on healthy fish, or destroy it. The aquarist’s hands should always be washed after handling a diseased tank.

Poisoning

Fish are very susceptible to poisoning by many insecticides which may be used around the house. These should be avoided altogether in the fish room if possible, especially if they are in the form of sprays. Fresh paint may also be a source of toxic vapor for a period of hours after application. The safest course, if a nearby room is to be painted, is to cover the tank with several layers of paper and seal it with tape round the edges. Some of the newer paints dry rapidly and are less likely to create problems.

Cleanliness And Filtration

There are two ways of setting up a large aquarium. The most natural situation is to have a large unfiltered tank which is well planted and contains only a few fish. This should require no aeration. Over the course of time a thick layer of mulm (fish waste) builds up on the bottom. This is a combination of fish waste and fragments of deteriorating plant leaves. A tank of this type has a natural appearance and should be left alone without frequent changes of the fish population. The number of fish that can be kept in this way is limited.

Most hobbyists prefer a filtered tank with a larger potential fish population and a clean bottom free of mulm. Both outside and bottom filters are equally effective in removing particulate material from the water. Bottom filters have the additional feature of supplying effective aeration as well as filtration. Subsand filters work on a different principle and draw the fine particulate matter down into the gravel where an aerobic (oxygen-loving) bacterial culture builds up and breaks down the filtered material into harmless compounds. This type of filtration is usually effective and will keep a tank crystal clear in most cases but it is not too effective in the case of large, particularly dirty fish like goldfish. The subsand filter also seems to have an inhibiting effect on plant growth. A bad feature about this filter is that once the filter is established it cannot safely be turned off. The aerobic bacteria will die and anaerobic bacteria which can live in the gravel without the constant flow of fresh oxygenated water will rapidly take over and may putrefy the water.

A similar effect can occur if antibiotics are used in a tank with a functioning subsand filter. In this case the aerobic bacteria may be killed by the antibiotic and subsequent cloudiness can occur. A thick layer of gravel must be used with a subsand filter to make the filter effective. Other tanks need a layer of gravel only thick enough to adequately root their plants. An even thinner layer of gravel can be used if the aquarium plants are grown in individual pots. This practice has an additional advantage in enabling the hobbyist to move the plants for cleaning the tank or for netting fish.

Color changes as fish approach or reach maturity are normal phenomena and are seen in many species ranging from guppies to goldfish. Occasionally adult fish will show additional color changes varying from small areas to the entire body without any other symptoms. Local areas of increased color do not necessarily indicate disease and are not adequately explained. Total body color changes can be seen in mature goldfish occasionally. Some of the author’s blue scaled goldfish have sometimes turned pure white over the course of a year or so. Other goldfish often show gradual spreading oflighter colored areas into the usual gold color.

Young goldfish normally show black fringes on their fins and tail which gradually disappear as the fish grows. The black fringes sometimes recur in mature fish and can remain for several weeks. If the fins are not actually rotting or fungused the change is probably temporary and will spontaneously revert to normal. If the change is a result of infection or injury on the fins or tail then treatment should be directed towards the cause.

Albino fish may occasionally turn up in spawnings from any species of fish and represent spontaneous mutations. They usually will breed true. Many species of fish are now available in albino varieties. Albanism occurs similarly in humans, both as an inherited characteristic and as a spontaneous mutation.

Humans also occasionally develop a condition called vitiligo which is a local depigmentation of the skin. The cause is not known and there are no other ill effects. The color change in humans is permanent.

Large Parasites

Only a few parasites visible to the unaided eye ordinarily attack fishes. These include fish lice (Argulus), leeches, anchor worms (Lernaea), and grub worms (Clinostomum). Most of these parasites will be found on pond fish or aquarium fish recently brought in from ponds. They can also be introduced on plants, pond water or poorly cleaned live food. In nature these parasites are rarely serious causes of illness but in confined quarters they can overpower the fish.

The fish louse is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch long and is an oval, clear, blister-like animal when seen on the side of a fish. The fish’s skin under the parasite will frequently show a blood spot. The lice may occasionally be seen swimming freely in the water. Leeches found in the aquarium may attack fish. They measure an inch or more when mature, but are very flexible and can stretch remarkably.

Anchor worms enter the fish’s body as a microscopic form, and only weeks or months later when they protrude from the skin is the hobbyist aware of their presence. They form a blister on the surface of the skin with the worm protruding from it.

Grub worms are the immature stage of a larger fluke and cannot multiply in the aquarium. They are approximately 1/8 to 1/6 of an inch long. They may protrude from the skin in a blister with a white center.

The treatment of infestations with all of these is similar and simply involves mechanical removal of the parasite. In the case of the fish louse and leeches, the organism can be simply picked off with a tweezers. The point of attachment on the fish can be treated with a drop of mercurochrome to help prevent secondary infection with bacteria or fungus. The anchor worm is fastened very strongly and may be difficult to remove without injuring the fish. The fish can be held in a moist net and a drop of concentrated salt solution should be placed directly on the parasite. Then tweezers can be used and will require considerable tension to remove the worm. A large fish may be injured in this process and smaller fish may be killed. Grub worms may be removed similarly by opening the skin cyst containing the parasite and removing it with a needle or tweezers. Mercurochrome may also be used on the wounds resulting from the anchor worm and grub worm.

Small Parasites

Two flukes are common parasites of aquarium fishes. These are Dactylogyrus (gill flukes) and Gyrodactylus (skin flukes). Both organisms are directly transmitted from one fish to the other and the rate of transmission is partially dependent on crowding. The affected fish will have a shimmying behavior and will be seen scratching themselves against gravel, plants, etc. A strong magnifying glass will show the slender skin flukes on the surface of the fish. Gill flukes usually cannot be seen; at times they may be visible at the edge of the gill cover. The skin and gills will develop increased amounts of mucus with a slimy appearance and may show small blood spots. A formalin dip is effective in treatment of individual fish before they are introduced into the aquarium.

A contaminated tank however cannot be effectively treated with formalin. Certain precautions must be taken. The hobbyist must make sure the sponge has no soap in it. Various brands may have other toxic elements in them and the sponge should preferably be tested on a less expensive fish in an isolated tank. The pH in the tank should be checked with an accurate pH kit and should be maintained at a slightly alkaline level during the treatment (pH 7.2 to 7.4). The treated fish should be observed frequently and about half the water changed if the fish shows signs of distress. Use one standard size copper sponge for a ten-gallon tank. The copper may be removed after the fish’s symptoms disappear. Copper pennies are also effective. Use twenty pennies per gallon of water. Remove them in twenty-four hours. This treatment is also effective against a number of other parasitic organisms and will be mentioned later.

Humans also are subject to superficial skin infections with flukes. Swimmers in the Great Lakes area are familiar with the “Swimmer’s Itch” which is due to a short lived infestation of the skin with larval forms of the fluke which does not normally parasitize human beings. The infection is self limited but annoying. Fish flukes in aquariums do not attack humans.

Ichthyopthirius Multifiliis is the name of a protozoan parasite which is the cause of the most common fish disease, “Ich”. This is a unique infection in that it is usually fatal if untreated, yet is probably the most easily cured of all fish afflictions.

The affected fish appears to be sprinkled with very small white spots on the fins and body. In the early stages of the disease only one or two spots may be seen, but in the later stages the fish may appear to be covered with them. Similar spots are present on the gills but of course are not visible externally. The parasite’s life cycle involves a free swimming stage and the visible encysted stage on the fish. The recommended medications are most effective during the free swimming stage, and an important part of the treatment is to raise the water temperature to speed up the life cycle and move the organism from the protected, encysted stage into the aquarium water where the medications will have their effect. Temperatures of 80 to 85°F should be maintained until all the spots are gone. In fact elevated temperatures in this range are frequently helpful in treating fish diseases in general and should be resorted to even if the cause of the disease is not known.

A number of drugs are effective against this parasite. The old standby is ordinary table salt in a concentration of about one tablespoonful per gallon of water. This is dangerous to catfish, however, and of course, the salt will remain until the water is changed. Quinine is very effective in a concentration of one grain per gallon of water. It is not toxic in this concentration and will gradually deteriorate by itself. Methylene blue has been used effectively in a concentration of three drops of 5 % solution per gallon of water. (5 % is the usual concentration sold in aquarium shops.) This has the disadvantage of staining many aquarium ornaments and gravel as well as having a toxic effect on some aquarium plants. One of the newest and best medications available is malachite green in a concentration of one drop of 0.75 % solution per gallon of water. This concentration is available in aquarium supply stores under various trade names. The dose is important and an overdose may be rapidly toxic. The drug is not safe with small fry. With any of these treatments an activated charcoal filter should not be used in the aquarium until the cure is completed since the charcoal may absorb the desired medication.

An infectious form of human diarrhea is caused by a protozoan organism called Balantidium coli which is remarkably similar to Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis in its appearance. This parasite generally infests pigs and is sometimes transmitted to humans from them.

This disease should not be confused with “Ich” since, to the experienced eye, the appearance is not really similar, although both are common and are caused by protozoa. The name “rust” gives the best idea of the appearance of an infected fish which will show a very fine pale yellowish, granular appearance on the body. Like “Ich” this disease can and does kill but is curable. It tends to have a longer course than “Ich” and may last for weeks. The causative organism is called Oodinium which also has free swimming and parasitic stages like Ichthyophthirius. The malachite green treatment is effective and safe in the proper dosage. The previously described copper treatment is also rapidly effective. The older methylene blue therapy may not be as successful.

Less common protozoan infections-Chilodon, Costia, and Trichodina are additional protozoan parasites which cause a general debility, weakness, and slimy appearance of affected fish. Young fish also may show a shaking and twitching behavior, as if they were attempting to dislodge the parasites. The organisms crawl over the outside of the fish’s body. With a strong magnifying glass, they may be just visible as minute white or clear dots on the fish or in the water. A few are relatively harmless but in confined spaces can multiply to the point where many organisms are present and can weaken and kill the infested fish. The parasites are usually introduced from ponds or on pond fish. They respond to the previously described copper treatment, Quinine, or formalin dip. The author has also recently used malachite green and acriflavine with success.

Myxosporidia and Microsporidia are less common protozoan organisms which occasionally infect fish and cause the appearance of varying size bumps under the fish’s skin. These bumps’ are actually cysts containing vast numbers of organisms and may measure up to one-half mch in diameter. If the cyst ruptures, the parasites are released into the water and can attack other fish. In addition to the obvious cysts the internal organs are also infected. The fish can harbor a low grade infection with a few organisms without apparent difficulty but occasionally the orgamsms Will multiply and cause obvious illness and ultimate death. No effective treatment is known. The suspected fish should be isolated or destroyed.

A number of bacteria are known to infect fish causing conditions such as fin and tail rot, ulcer disease and furunculosis, and gill infections. Among these are Myxobacteria (slime bacteria), and bacteria in the genera Pseudomonas, Aeromonas, and Hemophilus among others. The hobbyist usually finds it difficult to tell these infections apart and cannot isolate and identify the causative organism. The therapy of the infection is similar however so the differences are not too important for practical purposes. Myxobacteria are responsible for an infection in the mouths of fishes which has been misnamed “Mouth fungus” and also cause a condition called Columnaris disease which is due to an infection by a bacterium, Cytophaga columnaris.

The features which most bacterial infections have in common are ulcers (open sores) on the skin, fins and mouth, internal abscesses, and increased mucus on the skin and gills. These skin ulcers are like the top of an iceberg in that they give only a clue to the marked infection inside the body of the fish. Local treatment with ointments or with dyes such as malachite green or Methylene blue in the water is completely useless for curing the infected fish but may help to prevent transmission of the disease. Pop-eye and dropsy can also be caused by advanced bacterial infections.

Considering the number of bacteria which can infect humans, it would be surprising indeed if only these few recognized groups are the sole cause of fish bacterial infections. Other bacteria in the author’s personal experience falling into none of the above described categories can also cause disease. These may be less pathogenic but attack fish in a generally weakened condition. Bacteria such as these are known as opportunists. Aquarium fish will also be adversely affected and weakened by cloudy water which generally contains vast numbers of usually harmless bacteria.

The treatment for bacterial infections requires the use of antibiotics in the aquarium water which will be absorbed by the fish and which will reach the internal areas of infection. The tetracycline antibiotics are generally effective and are sold under various trade names. The forms of the drugs intended for human consumption can sometimes be used in aquarium water. Do not use any oral liquids or suspensions which may contain flavoring and sugar. This may result in giving rise to bacterial infestations in the water worse than the disease being treated. The best form to use is a capsule of pure drug which can be emptied into the aquarium water. Some forms of these drugs will yellow the water and cause the formation of scum and foam on the surface. Penicillin in its usual forms is effective against only a limited number of bacteria. A newer form of Penicillin, Ampicillin, has a much wider range of effectiveness and has been used by the author with considerable success. This drug is non-toxic to fish in high concentrations and is colorless. The recommended dose is 50 mg. per gallon of water for both the Tetracyclines and Ampicillin.

Fungus infections are rare as a primary cause of disease in aquarium fish. The condition occurs usually secondary to injury or an infection with some other organism which has weakened the fish or caused open sores on the body which serve as a portal of entry for the fungus organism. As previously mentioned, “mouth fungus” is actually a Myxobacterial infection.

Saprolegnia is the name of the group of true fungus organisms usually involved in aquarium infections. The infected fish appear to have fuzzy white or gray patches on their body or fins. Humans also may suffer from a variety of fungus organisms causing skin, hair, and fingernail infections. These tend to be chronic, long term diseases and recur easily. None are acquired from fish.

Treatment is generally simple and involves the use of malachite green, acriflavine, or methylene blue in the usual dosage. The fish may also have to be treated for any underlying condition which gave rise to the fungus infection.